Reinosa and Campoo make a good day trip from Bareyo: an old town with the church of San Sebastián, the Roman ruins of Julióbriga, the source of the Ebro at Fontibre and the Ebro reservoir. Allow around two hours by car each way, depending on traffic.
Reinosa sits at 855 metres above sea level and, at barely 4.12 km², is the smallest municipality in Cantabria. It is completely surrounded by Campoo de Enmedio, the Ebro and three other rivers run through it, and the Besaya route of the Camino de Santiago del Norte passes by. This is the Cantabria of plateau and mountains, very different from the Bareyo coast.
That difference is precisely the reason to go. About two hours by car away (an estimate, and it depends on the route), the landscape turns into open fields, a reservoir and peaks of over 2,000 metres. Autumn is a good time: the summer heat is gone and the winter, with its extreme cold, hasn't arrived yet; in 1971 a temperature of −24.6 °C was recorded here.
We suggest doing it from least to most effort: first the old town, then the Roman ruins and finally the water, which is the best way to end the day.
What to see in Reinosa: the old town and the town hall square
The old town takes a good hour to walk around. The church of San Sebastián, from the 16th century, is the landmark building. On the town hall square there are ashlar buildings from the 16th and 17th centuries, and very close by is La Casona, a manor house from 1830 that, according to some sources, serves as a tourist office and exhibition hall. The Casa de las Princesas, linked to Prince John's visit in 1497, is also worth a look.
By the river, the Ebro bridge and the Camino Real, also called the Camino de las Harinas, were built in the 18th century. The railway station, opened on 28 March 1857, is a reminder that Reinosa was for a long time a transport hub between the plateau and the sea.
Julióbriga: the Roman city of Campoo
About 5 kilometres from Reinosa, in Retortillo (Campoo de Enmedio), the ruins of Julióbriga occupy a hill at 917 metres. It was the most important of the nine Roman cities founded in Cantabria, created by the Legio IV Macedonica between 15 and 13 BC, at the end of the Cantabrian Wars.
What survives includes the small forum, the Casa de los Morillos, dated to 80 AD, and the Casa de los Mosaicos, with mosaic floors, baths and a hypocaust. Since 2003 there has also been a museum, the Domus Romana. One source says the ruins can be visited freely and at no cost, but the opening hours of the interpretation centre may change: confirm them before you go.
The Ebro reservoir and Fontibre: water, birds and the source of the river
The Ebro reservoir is the largest expanse of fresh water in Cantabria, at 6,253 hectares, and a refuge for more than 160 recorded bird species. Water sports are practised there and there are hiking trails around it; the interpretation centre is in Corconte. In autumn it is a good place for a walk with binoculars.
About 4 kilometres from Reinosa, the Ebro rises at Fontibre. There is a short circular trail and a picnic area by the spring: a quiet way to end the day, with Spain's longest river still a single thin thread of water.
Eating in Campoo and what to do by season
The typical sweet is the pantortilla, and in the area's restaurants you will find trout, wild boar, venison and cocido montañés. For the latter we have our guide to where to eat the best cocido montañés in Cantabria, in case you want to book a table before heading up.
The Alto Campoo resort, about 25 kilometres away, is open from December to April, so there is no skiing right now. Pico Tres Mares, at over 2,000 metres, offers exceptional views according to the official Turespaña listing and is a good reason to come back in winter.
What you need to know
Distance: around two hours by car from Bareyo (an estimate; it depends on the route and traffic). How long: a full day; to fit in the reservoir and Fontibre without rushing, set off early. Best time: all year round; in autumn the landscape is gentler than in the depths of winter. Warm clothes: Reinosa is at 855 metres and its winters are very cold; bring an extra layer even in autumn. Before you go: confirm the opening hours of Julióbriga and the tourist office; general information at Turespaña. Skiing: Alto Campoo runs from December to April.
Reinosa is inland Cantabria: a day of plateau, Roman ruins and fresh water, two hours from the sea.
Coming back from Campoo to Bareyo means changing landscape in a few hours: from moorland and reservoir to the estuary and meadows of Trasmiera. That variety is what makes the area a good base, and Bareyo Residences a quiet place to return to after a long day.
